Buis and Marseille

It’s so wonderful to be back in Buis-les-Baronnies.  It is our second home and we have really missed being here.  That is the downside of having one’s holiday home in another country during a pandemic.

Whilst we have had some big touring days, we have also spent a lot of time in and around Buis.  We have not been here in summer since owning the house, so have really enjoyed being able to eat outside in our ruelle and going to the local swimming pool.

 

Our first full day in Buis was a Wednesday, which, yay, was market day.  It was great to see the market in full swing.  As usual, I was sucked into buying way too much nougat although not as much as the time TR and I bought enough to feed the village – let them eat nougat!

We’ve been having a lot of aperos and have discovered that some new bars have opened in town.  We particularly like Ivre Ensemble – the name and its focus on wine. One of our long-standing favourite cafes also makes a very refreshing gin fizz, although they could be more generous with the gin. 

On our days around Buis, we have walked around town a number of times and done short trips to the nearby towns Plaisian and Roche-sur-le- Buis,as well as to the tiny but very old St.Trophime church that is on a hill above town.

 

 

 

 

One of our big touring days was to the Luberon Valley via Mt. Ventoux, Sault and Rousillon.

Mt.Ventoux never ceases to delight and it was fascinating to see the huge number of cyclists attempting the climb.  I was particularly interested in the number of people using electric bikes, although I overheard someone at the top saying ‘that was harder than I expected on an electric bike.’

We had a picnic lunch at Sault.  The lavender was in bloom and luckily had not been harvested.  We feel that the lavender is not quite as vibrant and picturesque as it was 13 years ago, but perhaps we are looking back with lavender coloured glasses. 

This was the first time that we got up close to the lavender fields, whilst in bloom, at the Abbey de Senanque.

  

We had a quick visit to Avignon to see the Palais des Papes and the mighty Rhone River.

We spent two days in Marseilles, which is the first time that we’ve stayed in Marseilles and spent consecutive days there.  We had a fantastic time and we feel that we now appreciate it better.

We were able to wander slowly around the Vieux Port, finding nice places for aperos.  Margot has reacquainted herself with a former friend, pastis.

 

We meandered around, up and through Fort St. Jean, which has been modified with some lovely architectural public spaces.

A Jeffrey Smart opportunity

 

Just opposite is the Cathedrale La Major, built in the 19^th century, which was enormous and lavish.  Dale particularly liked the mosaic floors, so you’ll have to forgive the number of photos.

 

But in many ways the highlight of the visit was the Bastille Day celebrations.

We spent an hour and a half in the baking late afternoon sun watching the parade.  Unfortunately, it was a little hard to get really great photos.  Mum and I were in the second row at street level and we gave up on trying to take photos.  Dale and Wendy were perched uncomfortably on bike racks next to a building and were at least able to get some good photos from the shoulders up but couldn’t see some of the interesting details. 

 

 

Mum and I were particularly intrigued in what turned out to be the French Foreign Legion Pioneers.  They wear buffalo leather aprons, carry axes and apparently must have beards.  Wikipedia tells me that they are a unit of tradition and often head the Foreign Legion Divisions in parades.

Photo nicked off the interweb for illustrative purposes

 

The two flyovers by the air force, trailing streams of red, white and blue, were also a highlight.

We also loved the cavaliers of the republic guard and the armoured vehicles, including tanks.

After the parade we had dinner in a vast open square on the southern side of the Vieux Port and then joined the thousands of other people to watch the fire works over the Port and Fort St. Nicholas. It was astonishing to experience such large-scale fireworks at such close proximity.  We especially liked the waterfall effect.

Where's Wendy?

The next morning on our way out of Marseille, we drove up to the gorgeous Notre-Dame de la Garde.  We had seen it on a previous visit, and it is so much more modest than the newer Cathedral La Major, however we still think it is amazing.

Great view back across the vieux port to La Major and the modern port beyond

We visited Arles briefly to have lunch and take a quick look at the Roman Amphitheatre.  Such a pretty town.

After Arles we went on to Pont du Gard to marvel at this wonder of Roman engineering whilst taking a dip in the Gard.  Mum was the first in the river after navigating the steep steps down to the river.

 

 

 

A 1,100 year old olive tree