Despite having done significant hikes in the Ardeche from Tuesday through to Friday, we backed up again on Sunday for what proved to be the hardest walk of our trip. It was around the Gorges de la Meouge in Haute-Provence and involved a big climb first up. But the views of the Durance Valley and the Alps were utterly stunning. The thing that made the walk so difficult was a combination of it being quite long – approximately 19 kms – and that the final third or so was very hilly. We were walking alongside the Gorges but were constantly descending and ascending.
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| the Durance valley |
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| a post-lunch nap |
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| down into the gorge |
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| the geology in this area is very interesting |
We devoted the remaining couple of weeks to house renovations, interspersed with some more hiking and Coby and Roelof coming to visit.
The first change we wanted to make to the house was to paint the kitchen ceiling. The intention with was to lighten the space up because the ceiling was natural timber boards. I did a lot of the painting in the kitchen because it required little skilled handiwork – just many coats (4). Dale still did a couple of coats cutting in.
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| Before |
The second more major change was on the top floor of the house, which is a bedroom that also has a mezzanine with a single bed. The existing access to the mezzanine was a large wide stair/ladder that consumed a good chunk of space and dictated how the rest of the room below could be arranged.
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| Before |
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| Before |
The new compact design that Dale came up with involved using the space underneath the mezzanine, which was a void for the staircase down to the level below the top level. The new ladder sits above the other staircase and comes up through the mezzanine floor. This has freed up space in the top level bedroom to place the bed in a new (better) location and opens up possibilities for further improvements in future. Dale spent an incredible amount of time doing the renovations in the top bedroom himself and we are very happy with the result. Although he already had some tools in Buis, and brought some more with him, he lacked a lot of the tools and equipment that he has available at home, and so had to improvise new techniques for the joinery.
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| Support frame for new steps |
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| New frame straddling void below, leaving head room for ascending stair |
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| New access ladder with safety railing |
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| Short climb up the ladder |
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| You have arrived |
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| et voila. The bed is now on the opposite wall, with a view out through the balcony room window |
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| Lots of extra space now opposite the bed for future possibilities |
I had a lovely time talking to the local council and departmental office about some administrative matters – with mixed success – but everyone was extremely charming.
We did the next Thursday hike, which was picturesque but tame in comparison with the previous few. There was a large group of people, so it was very sociable, and it was a beautifully sunny day.
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| a tomb with a view |
Coby and Roelof arrived in Buis on Saturday the 17th and spent 5 nights in a lovely cottage on the other side of the river. Pleased to say that they continue to fall under Buis’s spell. They know the area well as they used to have family holidays in the area.
We had a lovely dinner at our place on the first night – just catching up after not having seen each other for over 4 years.
On Sunday we enjoyed a lovely lunch at St. Huberts in Entrechaux. Our second opportunity to sit outside under the wisteria – we also had a delightful lunch there with mum back in July.
On the Monday night we again hosted dinner at out place but this time also with Daniel and Jocelyne. I have no idea how we fitted 6 people into that small space, but we did. We had a great night as the conversation never let up and the wine was flowing.
The next day Jocelyne and Daniel took us to a little shop in nearby Pierrelongue where someone they know sells the vegetables that he grows in his garden out of his garage. Apparently, this is where all the locals go.
We met Coby and Roelof for coffee on their final day (market day) and then went over to their place for lunch, where we sat outside in gentle sunlight, had our final meal together, enjoying a Provençale rose. It was so nice to see them after all this time.
On Tuesday we had to go to F’s place – one of the Randouveze bigwigs – to get instructions about how to help marking some hiking trails for an upcoming special hiking day. It’s called the Ronde des Baronnies and it happens in September every year. The club organises 4 hikes – from easy to hard – and people come from all around the region. We volunteered to help, since they were asking for help, and we theoretically had the time. It was initially almost impossible to follow what on earth was going on – despite understanding the words the whole made no sense. It turned out we had been allocated to help mark the medium and hard walks, but we had to sit through the instructions for the easy walk and the marche nordique. Then when it did get to us – there were maps – but most of the instructions were about going up so and so track that goes to farmer Marie’s place – who's secretly got the hots for F (according to F). Half the locals – were also like – what? Can you just show us where we have to go on the map? Then we had to learn how to tie the plastic markers – F has a special technique. Fortunately, we got the hang of that because we were told that was our main task. We were each allocated to help one of the local experts. Anyway - goes without saying that we finished with drinks – and amusing chats with a couple of the women – who came over and checked whether we understood what was going on – much hilarity about our honest responses. The lovely Sacha said that it would all be ok – and lets just have a drink.
It sort of was ok except that later in the week, due to impending rain, the day for marking the trails was moved from Saturday to Friday, which we agreed to. But on arriving at the meeting point, they only needed one of us, so I went because Dale could use the time to keep going with the renovations. That was all good and well, but it was revealed later that night via a text message that the guy I had been originally paired with could only do his section Saturday. So out I went again - this time in blinding rain for a couple of hours. My decision to leave my over pants and pack cover at home in Melbourne turned out to be really dumb. Then – of course – I got hijacked – drinks back at P’s place this time. By the time I got home at 5pm – having left at 9 am – Dale was about to ring F to ask “what the hell have you done with my husband”?
On Sunday (our second last day) we did the medium (16 km) hike on the Ronde des Baronnies. I wasn’t up to the hard hike - half of which I’d marked in the rain the day before – and Dale was completely shattered from 2 weeks of renovations. It was absolutely delightful. We had not walked the first half of the trail before. Actually, Dale had not walked any of it - but I had also marked the second half of this one. There were great views of Buis and the surrounding Baronnies, with lots of dramatic clouds. At the revitalisation station we got to say goodbye to several the wonderful Randouveziens – and again back in Buis where lunch was provided under the Arcades.
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| setting off through the village's quite early morning streets |
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| Buis nestled below the Rocher St Julien |
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| Rain the previous day made crossing the Ouveze river more challenging than usual - especially as we were leaving the next day and could not afford to leave behind sodden boots; so off they came! |
We spent the following Monday packing and cleaning. Then it was off to the UK on Tuesday.











































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